Around Old Istanbul

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Eminonu

 The ancient heart of the city and it's public transportation hub.  The ferry docks are here, trams trundle back and forth, traffic streams over the Galata Bridge, the bus station is around the corner and there is a street market adding to the general melle.  There is an underpass lined with shops which is not for the faint hearted either.  It's where you will find Suleymaniye, the New Mosque, the Spice and Grand Bazaars & Hans.   Having visited the glorious Mosques, and markets, eat at a floating food stall, take a ferry for an inexpensive trip across and down the Bosphorus,  or just wander the bustling streets
     Eminonu waterfront from across the Golden Horn

 
Suleymaniye Camii

Dominating the Golden Horn from atop one of the seven hills upon which the city was built, is the largest mosque in Istanbul, built by the powerful Ottoman Emperors Suleyman the Magnificent. 

The Imperial mosques of Istanbul were responsible for its re growth.  After the conquest the people fled, returning to settle in the quarters springing up around the new mosques.  They were not only places of worship but were also charitable institutions funding schools, hospitals, orphanages amongst other things and their kitchens fed thousands, Jew and Christians as well as Muslims
 
Yeni Cami - New Mosque

On the Eminonu waterfront  opposite the Galata Bridge, stands Yemi Cami the 'New Mosque,' is unusual in that it was built at a time when the women of the Harem were at their most powerful.  It was started in 1597 by the mother of Mehmet lll but her influence ended upon the death of her son.  It remained unfinished until six sultans later, another powerful Valide Sultan revived the project
                             Ritual Ablutions - Suleymaniye

 Yeni Cami

                    Minbar of the Yeni Cami

The Kapali Carisi, Grand Bazaar or Covered Market

Call it what you will, it is an amazing retail experience. A labyrinth of 64 shopping streets, 4400 shops, and 25,000 employees, 4 fountains, 2 mosques and 22 gates.  The array of goods on sale is vast, they claim half a million locals and tourists alike shop here every day.  It is hectic and the touts relentless.  Everyone gets lost or at least disorientated in the bazaar's vaulted tunnels.   We never ventured far without checking the whereabouts of  Kalpakcilarbasi Street the main thoroughfare 

It started as a small warehouse at the time of Mehmet the Conqueror.  Traders erected roofs over their stalls until the market covered a vast area.  Caravans came from the corners of the empire bringing great wealth.  Eventually it grew to be the size of a small city and was gated and locked at night

The pennants flying in the arcades are in support of Istanbul's bid for the 2008 Olympics.   Similar flags were flying in Toronto when I left to meet my sister in law in Manchester, another city pinning it's hopes on being awarded the  games

 

The  Egyptian Misir Carsisi Spice Bazaar      Is much smaller making for a more relaxing shopping expedition 

         

 

Built at the time of the New Mosque.  For centuries people came here to consult the pharmacists who acted as doctors prescribing and making up potions to cure all ills  

A famous medication for haemorrhoids involved boiling gunpowder with lemon and consuming on an empty stomach.  It fell out of favour when the stores supplying it kept blowing up 

In  2001 there were only 9 stores selling spices in the bazaar.  The others selling dried fruit, nuts, meat and a wide variety of goods

 

 

From here a short walk across the Galata Bridge brings you to the tower, from where in the 17th century Hezarfen Ahmet Celevi achieved his dream of manned flight.  On homemade wings  he 'flew' from the top of the tower to Uskudar on the Asian shore.  His reward from the Sultan was to be pronounced too dangerous to have around and he was exiled to Algeria

The 180' Galata Tower

 

The  prominent landmark on the European side of the city, was built by the Genoese as the watchtower for their medieval fortified colony and until the 1960's as a fire lookout.  It now serves as an observation deck for tourists who either walk or take an elevator to the top.  The 360' degree view is well worth the effort.  The maritime traffic is interesting to watch, ferries, cargo vessels, luxury cruise liners, private yachts and all manner of small boats ply the waters where the Golden Horn,  the sea of Marmara and the Bosphorus meet

 

 

 

 

 

This bridge is only 10 years old.  The original was built on pontoons which prevented the free flow of water from clearing the Golden Horn of pollutants
The Tünel Tram

An underground railway built to take  European merchants from their offices in Galata to their homes in Pera.  It is still a great way to avoid climbing the hill

Pera (Beyoglu), was given to the Genoese in the 13th century in gratitude for military support. They were joined by Jews from Spain, Armenians, Greeks and Arabs, all setting up their own communities.   Centuries later the European powers built their embassies here,  downgraded to consulates when Ankara became the capital city

The Whirling Dervish
Sufism is the mystical side of Islam.  The name comes from the woollen robes of it's followers who aspired to a divine experience through poverty and self denial.  Of the many Sufi sects the most famous is the Mevlevi, or Whirling Devish and their most famous dancing hall is the 18th century Galata Mevlevihanesi, located on Galipdede Caddesi, not far from Tünel at the end of Istiklal Caddesi in Istanbul   
 

The Dervish enter the Sema Hall led by the dance master and line up to one side, heads bowed

 

 

The Sheik is the last to enter, bowing he walks slowly to his post and takes up his position on a red sheepskin rug.  He stands, bows and begins the Sultan Veld Walk.  The Dervish follow, stopping to bow to each other at the post.   They circle the floor 3 times, the last Dervish bows to the Sheiks post and returns to his place, as the Sheik returns to the post

Those who are about to 'turn for God', bow, remove their cloaks, kissing them before dropping them to the floor.  Standing with arms crossed right over left they prepare to whirl
 

The semazens extend their arms the right palm facing up, the left down and slowly begin.  Energy is channelled from the upturned palm, through the body and down to earth via the left palm

Turning counter clockwise, 20 to 30 times a minute, silently chanting the name of Allah

The Sheik stands at his post, the musicians in the gallery play and a choir chants

'A secret turning in us 

Makes the universe turn

Head unaware of feet and feet head

Neither cares. They keep turning'   Rumi

 

The symbolism of the semazens turning robes:  Their white robes 'tennure' are a symbol of death, the long black cloaks 'hirka' the grave,  the brown felt hats 'kûlah orsikke',  tombstones.  Their dress symbolizes the death of the ego on the quest to come closer to Allah.   Coloured robes are worn by trainees

As the semazens turn the dance master 'semazenbashi' slowly walks among   

       

them signalling with his eyes or position to correct their speed or posture

When the music ends, the dervish complete a turn and stop, facing the Sheik.  At the sudden movement their billowing skirts wrap around their legs as they bow to the Sheik.   The ceremony concludes with a prayer for peace to the God of the East and the West "who knows and embraces all believers"
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